Having Your Garage Opener Safely Trigger High-Wattage Bulbs

5.5mm pigtails for low voltage DC : https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B079CKL6P9/

USB to 5.5mm : https://www.amazon.com/3-Pack-JacobsParts-Type-Barrel-Copper/dp/B0761XV6H1/

Light socket to USB : https://www.amazon.com/Borju-Adapter-Decorative-Lighting-Surveillance/dp/B0CKQH37KR/ (eliminates needing a light-socket-to-120v plus a USB-wall-charger, thus eliminating a point of failure)

DC to AC Solid State Relay (SSR) with heatsink : https://www.amazon.com/CGELE-Heat-Sink-DC-25A/dp/B09GLRRGLT/

From here, you'll want to design your own light socket arrangement.  I ran AC cable from the output of the SSR to a dual wall socket, and connected that circuit to 120v, at the same outlet where the garage opener gets its power.  Then, I run two separate light sockets with standard plugs, each affixed to the garage supports on the left and right side of the garage.  With the SSR able to pass more amperage than the breaker for my garage allows, the proverbial sky was the limit for the wattage of bulb I could run at the two light sockets.  I chose two LED garage lights with articulating and spinning arms.  The arms are aimed up-and-away, so as not to be blinding.  Keep in mind that bright lights can dazzle, even when reflected.  Diffused light is better overall, in my opinion.  There's no risk of burning-out the fuse on the garage opener, because I'm only pulling the amperage for the USB socket.  The relay flips easily as low as 3VDC, so even a USB with weak output can trigger hundreds of Watts of light output from the AC circuit on the other side of the SSR.  This is also creating redundancy for my light source, by doubling the number of bulbs outputting light.  With SSRs having decreased in price in the last decade or so, it was hard to defend procrastinating on this project.

This was the rest of my shopping list for my local hardware store :

- roll of AC cable, accounting for the various connections and angles

- three male plugs

- one dual wall socket and faceplate

- one "wall box" (I zip-tied the SSR and heatsink to the side of the wall box)

- two light sockets (more if you want them, just chain them together)

- two bulbs of your choice (more if you want them, to match the qty of light sockets you plan)

- zip ties for securing the wires and wall box to the garage uprights

Now, when I enter my garage by foot, the motion sensors trigger the garage light, which triggers the USB on, which triggers the SSR on, which turns on the two LED lights.  They timeout with the garage settings, so for 99% of my garage visits, I can just exit and allow the system to turn itself off.

When I park vehicles, the garage is well-lit, and again there's no concern of the lights staying on too long, because the system is self-limiting.  The kids and the wife appreciate the extra light, and it just reduces the overall stress of exiting the car.

If you don't already have a motion sensor at the garage button, I would suggest adding one if your wiring is compatible, as it greatly extends the functionality of this solution.